Happy July! This summer continues to be a hot one, and what better time to feature a cold dish than now—cold ox tongue and recommended side dishes. To accompany the recipe, we are featuring a commissary and culinary guide that was produced by the Pullman Company, along with the history of ox tongue as a culinary dish, and cattle and the railroads.
Figure 1 Cover page of Repertory for Commissary Employes and Culinary Guide, published 1937.
Recently donated to the Colorado Railroad Museum for the collection are two copies of a detailed Pullman Company commissary and culinary guide that was first published in 1936. A collection of loose-leaf sheets in a binder, the book served several purposes. The book was distributed amongst Pullman Company chefs and included recipes that were to be made available to “the attendants and bus boys.” Printed on the first paragraph of the preface was the purpose of these books:
“These instructions not only cover the preparation and cooking of food, but also the garnishing and serving and marketing.”
Figure 2 The Pullman Company Repertory for Commissary Employees Volume 1, Colorado Railroad Museum Collection.
Figure 3 Preface of the Pullman Company recipe book.
The loose-leaf nature of the book meant that updated recipes could be sent and later included. The chefs were to keep their books in pristine condition, with mandatory inspections both to ensure that the recipes and instructions were followed and that the book was “properly stored” and “not unduly mussed and soiled.” The books included inspection sheets that were used during these routine events (see figure 4).
Figure 4 Inspection page for the Pullman Company commissary book.
The Pullman Company, founded in 1867, was known for their high standards of service. The instructions in this commissary book covered a wide range of instructions which included the proper ways to boil water, how to cook cereal, and included photos of the presentation of the recipes featured.
Figure 5 George Pullman, founder of the Pullman Company.
Before we share the recipe, let’s talk about the connection between cattle ranching and the railroads. As American cities grew, and resources became scarce, there was a need to expand farms and ranches to feed these populations. Farmers and ranchers moved further west to grow crops and raise cattle, and the railroads brought these items to market. Colorado was one of the places that saw an uptick in the cattle industry at this time. Railroads were directly responsible for the cattle boom, as they transported cattle in cattle cars to slaughterhouses all across America—allowing far off cities the chance to purchase and consume fresh meat.
Figure 6 View of Denver Union Stock Yards Company cattle pens and the Omaha and Grant smelter smokestack in the distance, circa 1915. Photo Courtesy of Denver Public Library, Western History Collection.
Why ox tongue? Ox tongue, also referred to as beef tongue, has been used as far back in America as the 18th century when it was published as a desirable filling for mincemeat pie, though it’s likely it was consumed even longer than that. Canned ox tongue—as the recipe calls for—was a later addition. Canned goods became popular in America during the Civil War, despite first being introduced in the 1820s. Canned goods reached their peak during the World Wars as a method to help feed soldiers and preserve food. Home canning became more popular and canning factories reached their peak at this time.
Figure 7 1918 advertisement for Morrell’s canned ox tongue.
We hope you enjoyed our brief account of cattle, ox tongue, and the Pullman Company’s Repertory for Commissary Employees and Culinary Guide. If you have any railroad recipe books or historic commissary guides that you are willing to donate or share with the Colorado Railroad Museum, please reach out. Our recipe today features the side dishes that the Pullman Company recommended serving with cold ox tongue. Pullman Company recommended serving this recipe with asparagus tips with vinaigrette, potato salad, mayonnaise, and lettuce and gherkins. If you try any of the recipes, please let us know in the comments below, or on our social media channels.
COLD OX TONGUE
with
Asparagus Tips, Vinaigrette
Potato Salad
Mayonnaise
Lettuce and Gherkins
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Chill can of tongue well. Open and remove. Start cutting tongue at the tip and slice it into slices 1/4 inch thick. Arrange neatly in largest compartment of cold combination plate. Garnish with a crisp lettuce leaf and two Gherkins, cut fan-shaped.
In one of the smaller compartments place a half cupful of Potato Salad on a leaf of lettuce. Sprinkle with a little chopped chives or parsley. In the other compartment, place about 6 stalks chilled, cooled Asparagus, Vinaigrette.
In the smallest compartment, place a tablespoonful of Mayonnaise on a lettuce leaf.
POTATO SALAD
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Boil potatoes with their jackets. When cooked, drain off water and let cool a little, so the potatoes are still lukewarm. To one part of the vinegar add one part of water and one part olive oil. Season with salt, ground pepper, and, into this liquid, grate a little raw onion. Warm this mixture slightly. Slice potatoes, while still a little warm, into liquid. Swig pan with potatoes carefully until everything is well-mixed. Allow to cool. When serving, serve about 3 ounces on a lettuce leaf and srinkle with a little chopped parsley.
ASPARAGUS VINAIGRETTE
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6 or 7 stalks of cold cooked Asparagus. Place on lettuce leaf and pour over same Vinaigrette Dressing, which is prepared in the following manner:
VINAIGRETTE DRESSING
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1/2 cup Vinegar
1 cup olive oil
1/2 cup finely chopped raw onions (washed)
1/4 cup finely chopped raw capers
1/8 finely chopped chives
1/8 finely chopped parsley
Add salt, ground black pepper, little granulated sugar and dry mustard. Mix well.
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